Why Skylights Fail
Skylights live the hardest life of any roof component: constant UV, standing water at the curb, thermal cycling every single day. The seals that keep them watertight typically last 15 to 20 years — meaning the skylights on your 22-year-old Baltimore roof are living on borrowed time even if they are not leaking yet. The failure modes are familiar: fogged or cloudy glazing (failed seals), drips at the frame corners, and — most commonly — leaks at the flashing where the skylight meets the roof, not the skylight itself.
Here is the key insight: when we tear off your roof, the skylight flashing gets disturbed no matter what. Re-flashing a 20-year-old skylight and hoping it lasts through your new roof's 25-year life is wishful thinking. The labor to swap the unit while the roof is open is a fraction of a standalone skylight job later.
What We Install
We install current-generation fixed and venting skylights — double-pane, low-E coated, argon-filled — from established manufacturers. Compared to the single-pane or early double-pane units on most Baltimore homes, the difference is dramatic: better insulation, UV protection for your furnishings, and vastly better condensation resistance. Venting (opening) skylights add fresh air and a heat-escape path for stuffy upstairs rooms — worth considering for bathrooms and top-floor bedrooms.
Curb-mounted vs deck-mounted: most replacements are curb-mounted — the new unit sits on the existing framed curb with fresh flashing. If the curb itself is rotted (common with long-term leaks), we rebuild it. Either way, the flashing is new and integrated with the new roofing, step-flashed and counter-flashed properly — not caulked and hoped.
Our Process: Step by Step
- Evaluated during your roof inspection. We check every skylight: glazing condition, frame integrity, flashing, and signs of past or active leaking in the shaft and surrounding drywall.
- Honest recommendation. Skylight under 10 years old and bone dry? Keep it — we will re-flash it carefully into the new roof. Past 15 with any symptoms? Replace. We show you the evidence either way.
- Sized and quoted. Skylight units, curb work if needed, and flashing are line items in your written roof quote. No surprises.
- Swapped during tear-off. Old unit out, curb inspected and rebuilt if needed, new unit set and flashed into the new roofing system as the roof goes on around it.
- Interior check. We inspect the light shaft and surrounding drywall for old water damage and tell you what we find — some homeowners want the shaft repainted or repaired after years of slow leaks.
What It Costs in Baltimore
During a roof replacement, swapping a standard fixed skylight typically adds $800 to $1,500 per unit including the new unit and flashing; venting skylights run $1,200 to $2,200. As a standalone job (without the roof open), expect roughly double — another reason to do it with the roof. Curb rebuilds, if the old curb is rotted, add a few hundred dollars and are quoted upfront.
Disclaimer: typical ranges for Baltimore-area homes, not quotes. Skylight sizes and shaft conditions vary; your written quote after inspection is the real number.
The Leak Is Usually the Flashing
When a skylight leaks, homeowners blame the skylight — but more than half the time, the culprit is the flashing around it: step flashing that was never right, counter-flashing that has pulled away, or sealant that someone smeared over the real problem. During a roof replacement we rebuild the flashing system correctly regardless. If the unit itself is young and sound, correct flashing often solves the "skylight leak" permanently without replacing the unit.
Light Tunnels: The Alternative
Want daylight in a dark hallway or closet without a full skylight? Tubular skylights (light tunnels) pipe sunlight through a reflective tube — less leak risk, lower cost, and surprisingly bright. They are not a replacement for a real skylight's view and ventilation, but for dark interior spaces they are excellent. Ask during your inspection.
Placement and Sizing: Getting Daylight Right
Not all skylight placements are equal. South-facing skylights pour in light — and summer heat; in Baltimore's climate they need low-E glazing and often a shade to stay comfortable in August. North-facing skylights give soft, even light all day with minimal heat gain — ideal for studios and living spaces. East catches morning sun, west catches the hot afternoon. Sizing follows a simple rule: the skylight should be roughly 5 to 15 percent of the room's floor area for balanced daylight without glare or overheating. Shaft design matters too — a flared shaft spreads light wider than a straight one. When we replace your skylights during the roof job, we will talk through placement and sizing, not just swap like-for-like. And if you have ever thought about adding a skylight to a dark room, the roof replacement is the time — the opening, flashing, and shaft work integrate cleanly while the roof is open.